Chủ Nhật, 27 tháng 2, 2011

Advanced Style Around The World


The other day Advanced Style was featured in one of Vienna's largest newspapers derStandard. My photos, including a great cover shot of the Idiosyncratic Fashionistas are displayed throughout the issue . Jean, Valerie, Lina and I got together for brunch to catch up and look at their wonderful faces on the newspaper cover. Its great to see older ladies with great style getting the attention they deserve.


On another note Valerie broke her right wrist, but she doesn't let that stop her from looking as stylish as always. In the video below she shows how you can even add some style to your cast, proving that style really can be healing. If you are in need of a stylish cane and other helpful products check out this great company OMHU .



Thứ Sáu, 25 tháng 2, 2011

Simplicity is Chic



Lubi is one of my favorite Advanced Style Fahionistas. Not only does she live in my hometown of San Diego, but she has such a great perspective on life and style. I try and feature a variety of points of view with the shared philosophy that if you feel beautiful on the inside you will look beautiful on the outside. For Lubi style is a form of art and simplicity is her school of choice. She sent me a few words about the art of simplicity which I have included below. What is your style philosophy?

SIMPLICITY, SIMPLICITY, SIMPLICTY…

Many art forms recognize simplicity as the final achievement. Simplicity is an expression, a style, a statement. Leonardo da Vinci said,” Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication”. Simplicity has many creative powers.


White gloves in combination with a boring, dull gray sweater and white pants. Gloves shift the everyday comfortable outfit into a chic outfit


Red Cap and Red Shoes, with everything else ordinary and plain, gray, monotonous, make the outfit alive and exciting. Details give the fine-tuning to the casual outfit.



White by itself has its won incredible powers. No Need for adjustments



Red is the ultimate statement on its own. “ YOUTH HAS NO AGE” (Pablo Picasso)

Thứ Năm, 24 tháng 2, 2011

Modular Advances

[Image: Constructing with BeadBricks by Rizal Muslimin, courtesy of Brickstainable].

The winners of this year's Brickstainable design competition were announced last week, and two of the technical award-winners are actually quite interesting.

[Images: BeadBricks by Rizal Muslimin, courtesy of Brickstainable].

I'm particularly taken by a submission called BeadBricks by Rizal Muslimin, described as able to facilitate the design of microclimates "in and around buildings" by allowing variable levels of porosity in the facade. BeadBricks could thus allow architects "to modulate the environmental factors including sunshine, wind, thermal mass, and evaporative cooling."

The system, Muslimin explains, consists of "two bricks (A and B) with four basic rules that can generate shape in one, two and three dimensional space." Further, "the bricks are decorated with a pattern that can generate various ornaments by rotating them along its vertical or horizontal axis."

[Image: Constructing with BeadBricks by Rizal Muslimin, courtesy of Brickstainable].

The overall technical winner is also worth checking out: the EcoCeramic Masonry System, a "Recombinant and Multidimensional" molded terracotta brick devised by Kelly Winn and Jason Vollen.

[Image: The EcoCeramic Masonry System by Kelly Winn and Jason Vollen, courtesy of Brickstainable].

As Brickstainable describes it, their brick system "showcases the ability to look at new ceramic-based wall assemblies. Strategies include thermal dynamics, self-shading, moisture reduction, hydroscopic, evaporative, and termite behavior studies."

[Images: The EcoCeramic Masonry System by Kelly Winn and Jason Vollen, courtesy of Brickstainable].

Meanwhile, a related project comes to us from designer Dror Benshetrit, who recently invented his own modular system, called QuaDror. On the other hand, it's not really a "brick"; Fast Company describes it as "a structural joint that looks a little like a sawhorse, but can fold flat, making it both stunningly sturdy, remarkably flexible, and aesthetically pleasing." Check out the video:



The suggested uses for QuaDror "include support trestles for bridges, sound buffer walls for highways, a speedy skeleton for disaster or low-income housing, and quirky public art."

All in all, I would love to see more exploration with all three of these ideas, and I look forward to seeing all of them utilized in projects outside the design studio.

(Thanks to Thomas Rainwater for the tip about QuaDror and to Peter Doo for keeping me updated on Brickstainable).

Pay-As-You-Go Urbanism

[Image: By San Rocco].

In December 2010, San Rocco, an Italian magazine dedicated to contemporary spatial culture, produced the two images seen here. They were created in response to a move by the Italian Minister of the Interior to extend an anti-hooliganism ban—originally intended as a way to protect the city from violent sports fans—and using it, instead, as a means for spatially preventing "political rallies."

San Rocco have thus shown both Venice and Rome closed off behind museum-like turnstiles and security barriers, or what the magazine calls "efficient technological devices to regulate access to public space."

[Image: By San Rocco].

Even divorced from their political context, though, these images are provocative illustrations of another phenomenon: that is, the museumification of urban space, particularly in Venice, a city steadily losing its population.

The idea that we might someday see the urban cores of historic European cities simply abandoned by residents altogether and turned, explicitly, into museums, surrounded by pay-as-you-go turnstiles, does not actually seem that far-fetched.

(Spotted via Critical Grounds).

Thứ Tư, 23 tháng 2, 2011

You Can Learn a lot From Fabulous Older Ladies


"A good pair of sunglasses is better than a face lift." Mary (70)
"Rise Above It, it's what one does. We're not supposed to be happy happy happy and jumping for joy every second"





"Doesn't time go really fast its moment by moment by moment, and you've got to grab it"
"I don't know, maybe life is a fairytale"
"Grace, is what it is, you dance as you sail through life, and furthermore it heightens your living as of the moment"
"Like Piaf I have no regrets, Oh mercy you have to have the downers and the uppers to be a complete person." Mimi Weddell


"Be a fighter, challenge yourself, when you decide to do something do it well, give all of yourself"
"If you try to imitate too much, then you look like nothing. Never compare yourself, YOU are YOU."
”Feel beautiful inside and you will be beautiful outside." Ilona Royce Smithkin (90)
"Don't take your self too seriously."
"Dress for the theatre of your life." Lynn Dell 78.
"People need to get less stressed about fashion and get into the enjoyment of it"
"Take what is available and contour it towards what your needs are."

Over the last two years I have learned so much about life and style from the wonderful people I have met and photographed for Advanced Style.They have taught me that it is important to embrace life's up and downs, continue to learn and challenge myself,and take the opportunities that come my way. Above are some of my my favorite quotes from some of these fabulous women.

Thứ Ba, 22 tháng 2, 2011

Times Square


Here is your weekly dose of your favorite 90 year old Ilona Smithkin. These shots were taken near Times Square after we attended a screening of the Bill Cunningham Documentary.CLICK HERE to check out the great documentary Ilona Upstairs by Melissa Hammel. I have the flu today but promise some upcoming great new material.

Thứ Hai, 21 tháng 2, 2011

Architectural Potential Energy

[Image: From the forthcoming Pamphlet Architecture #32 by Stasus].

The forthcoming Pamphlet Architecture #32, on the theme of "resilience," will be authored by Matt Ozga-Lawn and James A. Craig of Stasus, a young design firm based in Edinburgh and London.

[Images: From the forthcoming Pamphlet Architecture #32 by Stasus].

The pamphlet, which will explore a series of post-industrial sites in the city of Warsaw—"a desolate area of disused freight rail tracks, commercial lots, gasometer buildings and other industrial apparatus," as the architects describe it—is more explicitly narrative than the other pamphlets that have been most recently published.

"The scope and intent of our book," Stasus writes, citing such influences as Piranesi and Andrei Tarkovsky's film Stalker, "is to highlight the importance of forgotten landscapes in our cities and the potentialities that can be extracted from them."
    A sprawling, unplanned city centre threatens a desolate landscape that still embodies many resilient aspects of the city. In many ways, the "value" of this landscape, though barren, could be said to exceed that of the new centre. The profound additional meanings inherent to a disused rail track in Warsaw, for example, eclipse the meanings inherent to a city block of financial skyscrapers. Rather than replace or erase these attributes, we aimed to augment the resiliency of the meanings that were embodied in every element of the landscape we stumbled across. As our design process progressed this methodology spread to every aspect of our thinking.
Within this urban landscape "on the edge of oblivion," as they describe it, "frozen, awaiting the imminent state of transition from one state to the next," they focused on a series of found objects and particular locations—a kind of readymade architectural forensics of the city.

[Images: From the forthcoming Pamphlet Architecture #32 by Stasus].

Their chosen strategy seems to have arisen directly from a course taught at the University of Edinburgh by professor Mark Dorrian.

As Dorrian himself explains, his students were urged "to set aside all familiar hierarchies, and recognize that dust, a discarded piece of paper or a scratch on the floor is as important as a window, cornice, column or door. We are in a situation in which everything counts—or at least in which we can discount nothing." Overlooked minor objects, apparently without use, and peripheral spaces of the city, apparently without residents, were thus taken as central to the course's architectural intentions.

[Images: From the forthcoming Pamphlet Architecture #32 by Stasus].

For their part, Stasus interpreted this design brief as requiring the use of narrative in order to help them reveal their site's future spatial possibilities. In their own words:
    Once identified, the design process takes the form of a testing and investigation of the properties inherent to these existing landscapes of possibilities. The more resistant certain elements are to transformation, deletion, or manipulation, the more they are worked into the design process and become adapted within and integral to design "outputs." The approach is therefore vastly different from a blank-paper methodology. Rather than creating our own clearing for design work, we aim to identify the most resilient elements within our field of exploration. These may be meanings passed through material context, implied mythical narratives, incidental connotations, historical and pre-historical implications.
"Our design process could therefore be described as an investigation of the resilient qualities of that which exists, a navigation of resilient landscapes," they summarize.

And it is the work that came out of that course that thus forms the conceptual backbone for the work that will soon appear as Pamphlet Architecture #32.

[Images: Derelict landscapes and optical devices scaled up to the size of megastructures, by Stasus].

In his introductory essay for the pamphlets, Dorrian suggests that Stasus's work "draws upon the strange imagined half-lives of obsolescent and anachronistic things" that are "charged with the future."

Put another way, abandoned objects, locations, and spaces have a particular kind of architectural potential energy, a lack of precise definition that allows them to hover somewhere between promise and realization; however misleading it might actually be, then, dereliction implies a unique capacity for transformation—an ability to assume radically new spatial characteristics in the future—whilst simultaneously presenting what we could describe as fossils of an earlier world, one that has long since disappeared or ceased to operate.

[Images: From the forthcoming Pamphlet Architecture #32 by Stasus].

In any case, I've included some preliminary images from the pamphlet here, as well as some project images by Stasus; for more, check out Stasus's website and keep your eye out for the Pamphlet itself, which I assume will be out sometime in the autumn.

Castle of Shadows

[Image: Giovanni Fontana's 15th-century "castle of shadows," from a paper by Philippe Codognet].

In a book published nearly 600 years ago, in the year 1420, Venetian engineer Giovanni Fontana proposed a mechanical construction called the Castellum Umbrarum, or "castle of shadows."

Philippe Codognet describes the 15th-century machine as "a room with walls made of folded translucent parchments lighted from behind, creating therefore an environment of moving images. Fontana also designed some kind of magic lantern to project on walls life-size images of devils or beasts." Codognet goes on to suggest that the device is an early ancestor of today's CAVE systems, or virtual reality rooms—an immersive, candlelit cinema of moving screens and flickering images.

Thứ Sáu, 18 tháng 2, 2011

Alice Carey For Vogue Japan and Advanced Style

Writer, Alice Carey is another one of the fantastic women I shot for a jewelry series on Vogue.co.jp . Here are some out takes from the original shoot, showing off some more of her wonderful jackets and jewels. I asked Alice  the following questions about aging and style:
1. How old are you? What are your concerns with your appearance as you get older. What is your attitude towards aging?
2.How do you take care of your skin, keep it looking healthy. Are you worried about wrinkles and aging skin?3. How do you keep your hair looking healthy. Do you color your hair? What is your thoughts on gray hair?
4.How has your style changed as you have gotten older. Do you feel more free to experiment with style. How do you get out of a style rut?
5.Any advice you would give to others who are concerned with aging…
6.Anything else you ‘d like to add?

Read her answers below:

1. I am in my early 60’S. Provided I stay looking good (and I work on it) I have no concerns about aging other than I hope I won’t become an old crone.
2. I am a CLAIRINS girl and have been for a long time. It is the best. However, when I’m in Ireland or England I find BOOTS face creams very good. Wrinkles are always a concern, but CLAIRINS seems to keep them in check. I use olive oil soap always.
3. Being Irish I began to go white in my early 20’s and I have been hennaing my hair since then. My husband and I do it every 6 or 7 weeks because my hair grows out fast and one can see the white. Several years ago, I wanted to see what I looked like au natural and I let my hair grow out so my stylist could cut all the colored hair off. Suddenly, I was marvelously white and looked like David Bowie. However, it wasn’t me and I continue to henna my hair.To keep my hair shiny I use Indian oil made from almonds and olives I buy in Middle Eastern stores.

4. I change my style all the time. However, as I grow older I heed Geoffrey Beene’s advice of wearing a uniform. My winter uniform being how you saw me in the street. My summer uniform black chinos from Marks & Spencer and as expensive a white shirt I can get my hands on. Thrift stores are good for this. I also live in cashmere sweaters, preferably vintage, and linen shifts for summer. I do not follow fashion trends and think women silly who do.
5. For god’s sake don’t sweat it. Moisturize as often as you can. Remember ‘life is just a bowl of cherries. Don’t take it serious, life’s too mysterious.”Also, red lipstick, always red lipstick!
6.Anything else...a good haircut several times a year. I do 5 or 6. Hair dye. Red lipstick. Face cream, face cream face cream – I do CLAIRINS and a F-you attitude to dowdy’ness. I look the way you saw me at 9 in the morning when all I’m doing is getting the paper and coffee. Fie on women in sneakers and sweats!




Fashion influences: Duchess of Windsor, Nan Kempner & Pat Buckley for frowzy, lavish formal / dress up stuff.Audrey Hepburn for informal such as my wearing all summer ‘uniform’ of tight black chinos (Marks & Spencer) and great men’s shirt from (say) Thomas Pink.

CLICK HERE to check out Alice's book I'll Know It When I See It: A Daughter's Search for Home in Ireland on Amazon and enjoy her style wisdom in THIS past post.